Air Conditioner repair in DC, Air Conditioner repair in MD, Air Conditioner repair in VA, Appliances Repair in Alexandria, Appliances Repair in Arlington, Appliances Repair in DC, Appliances Repair in Fairfax County, Appliances Repair in MD, Appliances Repair in Prince Georges County, Appliances Repair in Springfield, Appliances Repair in VA, Heat Repair In DC, Heat Repair In MD, Heat Repair In VA, Refrigrator Repair in DC, Refrigrator Repair in Fairfax County, Refrigrator Repair in MD, Refrigrator Repair in VA
Wobbling, Filling, Draining and Leaks
Some fixes are amazingly simple, requiring little time and nothing more than pulling the washing machine out from the wall to allow access to the rear or adjusting how the washer is positioned. Keep a flashlight handy to help you see in cramped, dark areas.
Wobbling washers, which act like they’re trying to walk away, are the easiest repair of all. One of two things is wrong – either the current load is unbalanced, causing the inner tub to bounce around inside the outer tub, or the machine isn’t level. An unbalanced load is temporary and will return to normal with the next load provided you distribute the weight of the clothes evenly and avoid over-filling the machine, which also stresses the motor and transmission. If the machine itself is not level, ensure all the water is drained before proceeding.
Underneath your washer are leveling feet, one to a corner. Often, the rear legs are “self-leveling” and adjust on their own. Tilt your washer forward enough that the back feet lift 3 or 4 inches from the floor, then settle it back in place. If the legs self-level, they will be accurate. Next, lift the front of the washer enough to slide a sturdy two-by-four board under the front, preventing the front legs from touching the floor.
Turn the legs, using a wrench, to raise or lower. Clockwise will lower the machine and counter-clockwise extends the leg, lifting the washer instead. Use a level, running it side-to-side as well as front-to-back and even diagonally across the top, to determine when the machine is level. Be patient – you will likely have to adjust, check, lift the machine back up and adjust again a few times before achieving a perfect reading.
Leaks on the floor around your washer are generally due to one thing – a leaking hose. On the back of your washer are three hoses: two supply hoses, both hot and cold, near the top and a drain hose that attaches near the bottom. Check the connections, where the hoses attach to the back of the washer as well as to the supply lines emerging from the wall and to the sewer drainpipe.
If the hoses fit snugly and securely, look for holes in the lines themselves. It’s always possible the hole will be too small to find without water flowing through it, but even a pinhole can lead to a rotting floor or mold. Replace visibly old, cracked, suspect-looking hoses. The hoses and clamps are self-explanatory to remove and replace and are very affordable. Turn the water off at the wall before performing the work, and test the results before putting the washer back in place.
Problems filling the machine often result with malfunctions of the water control unit or the inlet valve, both of which require some amount of machine disassembly. However, it bears mentioning that the simplest fix – and the first thing to check – is the water supply hoses and supply knobs. Above the hoses, emerging from the wall, are typically dial-like knobs that shut the water off and turn it on.
Check that each is turned fully open to allow water to flow. Even a pinched hose can prevent water from reaching the washer. Especially if the machine previously “walked” in place or the washer was shoved or moved, the inlet hoses may become cramped enough to prevent filling. Move the washer to allow free water flow.
If the washer has a hard time draining or refuses to drain, the problem may lie with the pump inside the washer’s housing. Another possibility, however, is a blockage within the house drain or the washer’s drain hose. First, detach the drain hose from the washer, where it connects to the pump inside. Then free it from the drainpipe; it either secures to the drainpipe or, commonly, slides down into the drain.
Incidentally, in the latter case, the end of the drain hose shouldn’t be farther than 4 to 6 inches inside the drainpipe to prevent a siphon-like action which works against proper drainage. Look inside the drain hose to spot blockages, especially at the beginning or end of the hose. Usually the hose isn’t very long so cleaning out an obstruction is fairly simple.
Appliances Repair in Fairfax County
If you notice water standing in the drainpipe itself, there’s likely a clog inside the wall drain. Try running a plumbing snake down the pipe or use a straightened coat hanger to reach close obstructions. Consult a plumber for difficult blockages within the house framing.
Appliances Repair in Fairfax County
Older washing machines used a drain filter to catch lint and debris before it reached the drain. While newer machines – with the exception of front-loading machines – don’t usually include a filter, aftermarket filters and homemade filters are used by owners concerned about filtration, especially with septic tank systems that may struggle with the load. Check a filter if your machine has one: either inside the end of the drain hose, attached to the drain hose and perhaps mounted to the wall, or behind an access panel at the front of the washer on side-loading machines. Clean to restore water flow.