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Glasstop stove repair has screws holding down the top. These screw are under the front lip and are found when you open the oven door and look up. Once you lift the stove top up, all the elements and wiring are visible. Depending on make of the stove, the elements will either be attached to the glasstop or positioned somehow on the stove body. Slide-in and drop-in stoves, you might have to take the front console apart to get to these screws.
For glasstop cooktop repair you have to uninstall the unit to do any kind of repair or testing on it. Some units do have small access panels underneath(bottom of the unit)to get to switches and wiring. Once you lift the cooktop up out of the countertop, you can usuually slide some 2×4’s under it to support it above your countertop. This way you can slide it around to undo all the screws on each side to get the top off and continue with your cooktop repair.
On either a stove or cooktop, the elements could be attached to the bottom of the glasstop or supported somehow in the body of the unit. Switches, on cooktops, can also be attached to the glasstop or in the body of the unit. On stove units, they will either be on the back or front panels depending on the style of stove.
Glasstop elements do not use terminal blocks, the wires are hooked directly from the switch to the terminal. Glasstop elements and switches also use a thermostat in the element to activate a “hot” element light to warn you. When you turn on one of these elements on high and glows well, you will see a stick looking thing in the middle of the element. That is the thermostat.
The glasstop element usually lasts longer then the coil element, but also costs quite a bit more. Also, as we mentioned above, these elements have a thermostat in them to activate a “hot” element light. With your wiring diagram, determine the 2 lead wires to the element, then you can test these elements the same way as the coil element. With an Ohm meter, test the leads and if the meter shows an “open” circuit, the element needs replacing.
Another way the element can fail, is by having the thermostat contacts stick and cause the “hot” element light to stay on or never come on. This failure does not affect the way your element heats or cycles. Unfortunately, the only way to solve this issue is to install a new element. Sometimes you may get lucky and tap the element where the wires hook up to it, and knock the contacts free and the light will go out.
These switches pretty much act the same way as the switches above under the coil element section. Their contacts are either going to be on or off, and possibly get stuck in one of those two positions. At that time, a new switch is needed. If you can trace the wires, you can test the 2 hot leads at the element to make sure you are getting 220-240 volts from the switch.
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Some of the more fancy stoves do not use mechanical switches but use a “touchpad”. They have heat/touch sensing switches on the back panel or the front panel of stove, depending on style. These “touchpads” are usually a single or 2 control boards for all the switches, so when 1 switch malfunctions, it is possible the whole control board must be replaced. Refer to your tech sheet for more info on these switches.
On cooktops, some of these controls are factory installed on the back side of the glasstop and can not be replaced in the “field”. If this is the case, you will have to replace the whole glasstop, which could get quite expensive.
NOTE: On glasstop stoves and cooktops, when the “hot” element light stays on, the problem is at the element. When the element “on” light stays on, the problem is in the switch. You will need to trace the wires and by trial & error find which element is causing the light.