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Pull-Out Coil Element
The older style pull out coil element stoves and cooktops can usually be serviced all from the top. Somehow, the top lifts up, either by screws under the front lip or under the coil elements or just by lifting. Once the top is up, you have access to all the element terminal blocks, and wiring.
As far as any stove repair on these units, it is pretty straight forward. Besides wiring issues, which are rare, you are only going to be replacing 3 different parts. The element, switch, or element terminal block are those 3 parts. One of these parts will cause the element not to heat.
Elements can easily be tested with an OHM meter. Remove the element from the terminal block, place each lead from your meter on the 2 ends of the element. If you get an “open” reading from your meter, the element is bad. If it is still showing resistance, it is still good. Elements do have specific resistance readings, but very rarely does it matter. If a element is showing resistence, it is good. Obviously, if you visually see a pit or hole or broken element, even though it still might read a resistance, get a new element.
Terminal blocks are where you install the elements into. These blocks will wear, depending on how many times you take the element out. The heat from the element will also cause them to wear, melt, or get brittle. You will need to inspect them 1st, if they pass the visual test, then get your voltage meter out. Put your meter on AC volts and place 1 lead in each of the 2 wires going into the block. Your reading should be 220-240 volts, this will show if your switch is good or not.
Now, back to a bad terminal block, over time these blocks will wear, break, & possibly spark. That is definitely a good time to replace them. Another rule of thumb, replace the block at the same time you replace the element. The terminal block comes in a kit w/instructions. Just make sure you disconnect the power before performing the repair.
The element switch works on the amperage it sends to the element, higher the amperage, hotter the element. There are sets of contacts and such inside the switch which regulates the amperage. Sometimes these contacts will either fuse together or not connect at all.
If no connection happens, no power to element. When fused together, the element will not regulate and usually will stay on high heat. When one of those two problems occur, it is time for a new switch. Over time your switch can also start getting “noisier” and you might not think it is regulating like it should. Technically, the switch is still good, until it does one of the above two conditions. It is up to you if you want to spend money on stove repair and get a new switch.
Switches on freestanding stoves are on the back panel, and switches for slide-ins & drop-ins are on the front panel above the stove door. Cooktop switches will be exposed when getting the top up. They might be in a box with an access panel or exposed with a separator wall protecting them from the elements.