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Gas Stove Oven or Wall Oven Repair
Gas stove or wall oven repair will usually be something electrical in the unit. Like a gas stove or cooktop, the valves and burners rarely break or wear out. Today’s gas ovens are almost all controlled by an electronic control board. They have fuses, oven sensors, and possibly control cooling fans just like their electric counterparts. Most oven repairs that are done on a gas stove or oven mirror electric ovens and the error codes are the same.
The biggest differences is that you only have 120 volts going to the unit, and you have a gas valve controlled by the electronic control and ignitor.
Checking Oven Sensor
The oven sensor is normally located in the oven cavity on the back wall towards the top. To test it for faults disconnect the power to the oven then remove the sensor. You will need an ohm meter to test the sensor, most oven sensors should read about 1050-1100 Ohms at room temperature 60 – 80 °F (15 -27 °C), if the sensor reading is ‘open’ or extremely high this means the sensor is faulty and needs replacing, if on the other hand the reading is extremely low then the sensor has shorted (check for wires touching each other) and will need replacing as well. Ovens with electronic controls usually have an error code that will diagnose this oven repair for you.
Fuses are extremely easy to fix/replace but can be indicative of a larger oven repair, fuses are designed to ‘blow’ to protect circuitry from surges in power etc, so if a fuse keeps blowing (doing it’s job) the problem is probably not the fuse but something else, so get the appliance checked out. To replace the fuse:
Gain access to the back panel, console cavity, or near the control(most fuses are located in 1 of the 3 places).
Remove the suspect fuse.
With an Ohmmeter test the fuse for continuity, if it fails the fuse is faulty and needs replacing.
The DREADED F1 Error
On a number of ranges this can mean a number of things, the most common being a failed ERC(EOC, Clock assembly)or a faulty touchpad. Firstly if you are using a recent Maytag range it may pay to test the oven sensor as described above as this may cause an F1 error if faulty (may apply to some other ranges as well) this is not a common cause but is worth discounting. To check the ERC and touchpad for oven repair, perform the following:
Disconnect the power
Gain access to the back of the ERC
Disconnect the ribbon cable that connects the ERC to the touchpad
Check that nothing disconnected will short when power is reconnected
Reconnect the power and switch on
Watch for F1 and listen for the beep
If you get the F1 and the beep this means the fault is with the ERC and it will need replacing
If after 30 mins you do not see the F1 error and hear the beep, replace the touchpad
If your ERC and touchpad are 1 unit, just replace the unit and disregard the above.
Conversion Of Gas Stove Oven or Wall Oven Most gas stoves and wall ovens are sold as natural gas. If you are going to be using LP gas, you must convert your gas stove.
These directions are in your installation instructions, and must be followed. The conversion can only be done by the owner or a licensed gas contractor. These instructions will involve flipping the spring stop in the regulator to the right gas and either changing or tightening down the oriface on the burner. If you have a 2nd burner for the broiler, don’t forget to do that oriface also.
Other Gas Stove or Wall Oven Problems
Most problems with gas stove & oven repair can be resolved by following the electric issues above. They all have fuses and switches/controls that need to be checked just like electric ovens. You are only checking for 120 volts instead of 240 volts. Your thermostat and selector switch or control turns on a igniter which in turn will complete the cycle to open the gas valve.
Burner Does Not Light This gas stove or oven repair can be caused by 4 things, your control/switch, the ignitor, the gas valve, or wiring.
Switch or Control If all of your safety switches are satisfied and you have correct voltage and a proper ground to your unit, you will be getting 120 volts leaving your switch/control down to your ignitor. If you don’t, replace your control.
Ignitor The ignitor is in the lighting circuit of your gas stove in between your control and gas valve. Check 1st to see that you are getting 120 volts at your ignitor, one easy way is just see if it glows. If it glows, then you probably getting 120 volts to your ignitor, but that is not the whole story.
In order for your gas valve to open, there must be a certain amount of resistance in this circuit to open the gas valve. To create this certain amout of resistance, your ignitor must draw a certain amount of amperage in this 120 volt circuit. Your ignitor may still glow, but if the amperage it draws is not enough to create the resistance the gas valve needs, the gas valve will never open.
When you have an ignitor on it’s last legs, you might get some sporadic lights from it, sometimes the gas valve will open, sometimes it won’t. It will only get worse, so change the ignitor. To test the ignitor, isolate one of the 2 wires going to it and use a clamp-on amperage reading meter. Minimum amperage reading you should be getting is about 3.2 AMPS or about 2.5 AMPS for a spiral type ignitor. If you take an Ohm reading, these ignitors should read about 150 Ohms. The ignitor is one of your biggest gas oven repair.
Gas Valve Sometimes called your safety valve. Very rarely do you need to perform oven repair on one of these. You can test your gas/safety valve by measuring it’s resistance. That will be in your tech sheet for your appliance. To replace this part, you will need to shut your gas supply off, unhook gas connections, install new part, use gas teflon tape for sealant at these connections, then test your gas connections for leakage after you get everything back together
Wiring Like in electrical circuits, your wiring plays a big part in the gas oven also. Do a quick check of wires and connectors before proceeding to your other tests. This might save you time and money on your oven repair. One important note with today’s units, is that you must have a proper ground and polarized voltage, without this, you may get no operation, crazy or sporadic operation.
Note: Some newer systems will use an ignitor like a cooktop or grill uses, rapid sparking. These systems use a spark module to operate these ignitors. One important issue with these systems is that you must have your unit properly grounded and the voltage polarized. The actual ignitor, once lit, acts like a sensor and sends the “lit” condition back to the spark module and control. If the spark fails to light the gas, the gas flow is shut off and you will get an error code in your display. This all happens in a matter of seconds, so no gas will build up.
Note: Older models used a pilot light to light your burner. These pilot lights worked similiar to your hot water tank and worked off of a thermocouple. The thermocouple had to be satisfied before your gas/safety valve would turn on.